I have lately become intrigued by some of the miniature hollow forms I have seen posted on the forums and decided that I wanted to try my hand at turning them. A friend of mine did some major thinning on a plum tree and gave me several limbs that were four to five inches in diameter. I also enjoy the look of natural edge bowls, so I thought I would try to combine the two and turn some natural edge mini hollow forms. After turning several of them, I thought I should work out a process. This is the process I came up with.

Starting with a blank roughly 3x3x4" mounted between centers, I turn it round and cut a tenon on one end. I usually put the tenon on the tailstock end, just because it is easier for me.
I then remove the blank from the centers and mount it in my chuck. I pull up the tailstock for extra support.
At this time, I start to roughly shape the blank into the form I want to turn. I usually look at the grain of the wood to help me design the form I want to use. I leave approximately 1" of wood between the form and the chuck. This is to ensure that I have enough wood to make a jam chuck for finishing the bottom.
Using a ¾" forstner bit in a drill chuck mounted in the tailstock, I drill a 2" hole into the blank. With a pencil mark a line on the outside of the roughed form. This line will be an indicator so I know where the foot will be.
Now, it's time to start hollowing. My favorite tools to use are the min- Kelton hollowers, but any hollowing tool will work. It is just a matter of preference. I will remove the tailstock from the lathe and position the toolrest across the opening in the form.
Hollow the form, clearing the shavings often, and checking the wall thickness for uniform thickness
After satisfied with the inside, move the toolrest around to the side and smooth the outside. It is now time to start shaping the foot, taking the overall balance of the form into consideration.
When happy with the shape and balance of the form, sand the entire form, and part it off.
To finish the bottom, I turn a jam chuck from the remainder of the stock that is still in the chuck. This takes the form of a small tenon that is about ¾" in diameter. The opening in the top of the form should fit tight so it doesn't slip, but not so tight that it cracks the lip. I use a piece of paper towel on the tenon if the fit is too loose.
Once the reversed form is centered on the jam chuck, I use my dremel with a 120 grit drum to do the initial sanding and shaping of the foot.
The last step is to finish-sand the foot and apply the finish of your choice.